The bulldozer and not the atomic bomb may turn out to be the most destructive invention of the 20th century."
- Philip Shabecoff on the destruction of wildlife habitat, New York Times Magazine, 4 June 1978

Kaziranga

Kaziranga National Park is located in the far North East of India in the state of Assam. Part of its northern border runs parallel with the mighty Bramaputra river which has caused several severe floods over the years in the low lying park land.

Poaching has also been a problem, though in recent years international attention and fund raising has contributed to better equipped park guards who bravely protect the park from unscrupulous gangs.

If we look at the wider picture Kaziranga is in fact a huge success story, the Rhino population has increased from an estimate at the beginning of the 20th century of 12 individuals to the present number of 1000. The first steps were taken by the British Government in 1908 when the forest was declared a reserve where all hunting was banned. It became a game sanctuary in 1916, a wildlife sanctuary in 1950 and finally a National Park in 1974. The main purpose of the park is to protect and conserve the surviving population of the one horned Indian rhinoceros.

The park covers 430 sq km of marshland, grassland and semi-evergreen forests which are constantly managed (mainly by fire) to maintain an ideal habitat for Kaziranga's wildlife. This wildlife includes a large population of wild elephants, Indian bison, swamp deer (barasingha), hog deer, sloth bears, tigers, leopard cats, jungle cats, otters, hog badgers, capped langurs, hoolock gibbons, wild boar, jackal, wild buffalo, pythons, monitor lizards and of course the one horned rhino.

Kaziranga is a birding paradise, the number of raptors for example that can be seen on safari is remarkable. These include the oriental honey buzzard, black-shouldered kite, black kite, brahminy kite, Pallas's fishing eagle, white tailed eagle, grey-headed fishing eagle, himalayan griffon, short-toed snake eagle, crested serpent eagle, pied harrier, long-legged buzzard, changeable hawk eagle and rufous-bellied eagle. During the winter huge numbers of migratory birds descend on the parks lakes and bheels (marshy areas). These include greylag geese, bar-headed geese, ruddy shelduck, gadwall, falcated duck, red-crested pochard and northern shoveller. Three different species of hornbills can be seen within the park, as well as pelicans and the rare bengal florican.

There are two ways to view wildlife inside the park. Elephant safaris depart early in the morning from the central range and head off into the tall grass named after them. This is ideal for viewing and photographing rhino and it is common to come across quite large groups grazing together. From your high vantage point you will also get good views of hog deer, barasingha and wild buffalo, and if extremely lucky a glimpse of the elusive tiger.

Jeep safaris allow you to cover a much larger area of the park, thus increasing your chances of wildlife encounters. There are three main ranges in which you can travel. The central range has the more regular tiger sightings. There are some great perches on this trail for raptor sightings, as well as lakes with otters and groups of wild elephants moving through the park.

The eastern range contains the largest lake in the park, which during the winter is home to thousands of migratory birds. It is also used by the resident rhinos, elephants and buffalo to cool off from the Indian sun. Sometimes it is possible to follow the track all the way to the great Bramaputra and watch the dolphins feeding in the waters.

The western range is probably the best trail for resident birds especially raptors, which during the hotter months grace the skies on the uplifting thermals. Tigers are also seen on this route, but not as regularly as in the central range.

It has over 80 percent of the Indian rhino population within its boundary as well as a healthy population of wild elephants. The park is open from November to April and is reached by air to Guwahati. Nearby Nameri Wildlife Sanctuary is one of few parks in India where you can wander into the jungle on foot (with an armed guard) and position yourself on raised hides to watch herds of deer and elephant as well as an array of bird life, river rafting and eco-fishing are also offered.